Places

A Fine Inn, a Garden of “Naturalness”
By Allyson Brehm

With one of the best views of Northeast Harbor, the Asticou Inn has been a Mount Desert tradition since 1883.


Built in 1883 as a place for “people from away” to come for the summer the Asticou Inn overlooks Northeast Harbor. An early staff of the inn poses with George Savage, who was responsible for the Asticou Azalea and Thuya gardens, seated in the front row.


The walking entrance from Route 3 leads guests from the Inn into the peaceful world of the Asticou Azalea Garden.


A family plays a game of chess in the hilltop Thuya Gardens in Northeast Harbor. The gardens, designed by Charles Savage, can be reached by car or walking up a series of terraces.

This luxurious inn and its surrounding gardens offer guests an escape to the “quiet side” of the island.

In the past, the inn was a place where summer visitors escaped the city’s heat to spend the entire summer season drinking in the views from the veranda or sailing in the harbor.

Things haven’t changed much today, except maybe the length of most stays by visitors.

According to “Asticou: History of an Inn and an Era,” the name Asticou is believed to mean “boiling kettle” and comes from a Penobscot Indian chief who lived in what is now Northeast Harbor around the time the island was discovered by Europeans.

The Asticou was one of the few luxuries “cottages” to survive the big fire of 1947. Not surprisingly, the inn saw a great increase in guests after the fire.

The inn was started by the Savage family, which settled in what is now Northeast Harbor in 1790. After building their home overlooking the harbor in 1854, the Savages began taking in summer boarders. The house, known today as Cranberry Lodge, is one of the many structures where guests can stay while at the inn.

The inn continued to be run by later generations of the Savage family until the mid-1960s when ownership was transferred to the Asti-Kim Corp., a consortium of summer residents and local business people.

The Asticou Azalea Garden located across the street from the inn is a place for quiet enjoyment. The 2.5-acre garden was designed by Charles Savage in 1956 and is now run by the Island Foundation.

When noted landscape designer Beatrix Farrand was preparing to break up her gardens at her Reef Point estate in Bar Harbor, Savage rescued the azalea collection. He had only one year to design and create the garden to accommodate the flowers.

His vision was to offer a place for guests to wander up from the harbor where there was “apparent naturalness,” said head gardener Mary Roper.

The garden is best remembered for its brilliant color during the azaleas’ peak bloom time that lasts from mid-May until mid-June, said Roper. But the fall color that peaks around Columbus Day is equally grand.

Savage’s goal, said Roper, was for the gardens to “seem as if all the planting happened on its own.”

Just a 15-minute walk up the road is another garden designed by Charles Savage. The Thuya Garden was created after the Azalea garden. The land was used first as a holding area for plants, Roper said.

You do not have to be a guest at the inn to enjoy the tranquil beauty at the two gardens. Parking is available at both.

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