Memories

Travels With Charley—and George

John Steinbeck stayed in Deer Isle in 1960. Deer Isle was the starting point for his around-America book, “Travels with Charley.” The stories about that visit won’t go away.

“Sometimes it’s years between times people mention it,” said Brenda Gilchrist, niece of the couple who hosted Steinbeck for a few days in 1960. “But then the book surges again and I get asked about it.”

Then 58, Steinbeck had been urged by Elizabeth Otis, his longtime literary agent, to start his trip in Deer Isle, of all places. Here’s the local version of how one of America’s most famous authors came to stay awhile, along with his pet poodle, Charley:

“I wasn’t here at the time. I was a young girl,” Gilchrist says. “So what I can tell you is the family story about it.

“It was my aunt (Eleanor Brace) who owned the house at that time. Our family had built this house in 1902—they were old summer people.

“They had this longtime guest named Elizabeth Otis. She was a well-known literary agent, and she had also worked with Eleanor’s brother, Gerald Warner Brace. He wrote a lot of books about Maine, and some novels.

“Elizabeth Otis came here every summer for 30 years. She was of huge importance in Steinbeck’s life: She supported him when he was really broke and before he became a success. When he told her he was doing this trip around America, she told him she would have nothing to do with him ever again if he didn’t start his trip in Deer Isle.

“So he had to come here, and he did. But because my aunt was a shy, reclusive woman, Elizabeth didn’t tell her he was coming until the night before he was due. Otherwise, she would have tried to back out.

“So he arrived with his truck and his dog. He actually slept in the truck, although they had meals together.

“My aunt had a cat called George, and George didn’t like any of this. He took off for the woods.

“There are some nice accounts in ‘Travels with Charley’ of his stay here. Just brief ones, but quite charming. He describes George the cat, and this is what I do remember myself: After the book was published, people would come to this house just to see George (who was female). I used to greet these people who drove down the driveway, looking for George.

“George lived to quite a good age. She is memorialized here in a hooked rug made by my aunt.”

Gilchrist still lives in the house where Steinbeck stayed, on Dunham’s Point Road in Sunset. It was designed by Alexander Wadsworth Longfellow, nephew of the poet and a well-known architect who did much work on Mount Desert Island.

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