Neighbors

Blueberries and Talk, Talk, Talk at Jordan’s

Things don’t change much at Jordan’s Restaurant. After all, Billy Keane has sat in the same counter seat there since 1955. He also has told the same story for years. But more about that later.

At 80 Cottage St., nearly across from the town offices, Jordan’s is where you can go for a cup of coffee and plenty of company at 5 a.m.


That’s Billy Keane, left, in the same seat at Jordan’s Restaurant that he has claimed every morning, 5 o’clock, since 1955. David Paine, Jordan’s owner and chief cook since 1976, hears everything that his customers talk about at the counter.

The summer tourists enjoy Jordan’s for its wild blueberry pancakes. At least, that’s the pitch on the paper placemats.

But for the rest of the year, when tourists aren’t coming off Cadillac Mountain after seeing the sunrise, hungry for David Paine’s pancakes, Jordan’s is the place to take the pulse of the town—according to the locals.

“Oh, we have a great time here,” said Paine, Jordan’s owner since 1976 and the one who works the griddle each morning, sometimes starting at 3 a.m. to prepare for the first rush. “You hear a lot of sarcasm here.”

That’s because most everyone who goes there enjoys the comfortable familiarity of knowing most everyone else.

Paine’s own family roots in Bar Harbor go back five generations. And he takes the lead in knowing who sits at the counter and who likes to take a booth. He says he knows most of the locals—the older ones, at least. But so many newcomers to Bar Harbor in the last five or 10 years, makes knowing absolutely everyone an impossible task.

Still, Paine, 56, can tell you that while Jack Perkins, the A&E television personality who lives locally, comes in occasionally, decorating doyen Martha Stewart—who also lives locally—sends over her crews for food and coffee to go.

While it would be something to talk about if Martha Stewart ever turned up herself, that hasn’t happened yet. Nothing really exceptional  ever happens at Jordan’s, actually. The one thing that Paine can count on, though, is just that a whole other bunch of regulars turn up at 9:30 a.m.

Their arrival mid-morning is as consistent as the batter for Jordan’s island-famous pancakes. On a busy day in summer, Paine goes through as many as 30 gallons of the batter he makes from scratch.

Paine likens his regular customers to a family—especially the early-rising ones.

“They talk about anything from girlfriends to politics, whatever a family talks about,” he said.

“I hear a lot of talk about the town’s issues, and sometimes I speak up myself. But usually I find that my customers are on so many sides of the issues, I tend to shut up.

“Some people talk about the newspaper, and other people talk about their health.”

Paine’s counter-sitters also talk about that no-headed rooster. That is actually the signature story around Jordan’s. It is particularly a favorite story  among the 5 a.m. folks, Billy Keane most of all.

“Poor Billy,” Paine said. “He put up with our teasing for at least a dozen years, because no one believed him.”

Keane can actually fend for himself these days. He now carries in his wallet a Denver Post clipping from 1999 about the rooster, who survived the chopping block, brain stem intact, in 1945 in Fruita, Colo. (Fruita now has a “headless rooster festival” in its honor, which is how the Denver Post came to revive the story and give Keane some overdue creedence among his buddies).

Keane actually saw the rooster when it toured around (until it choked, dying on a corn kernel), which is why he was so big on this story. And the fact that Keane wasn’t making it up all those years still makes enduring conversation—over Jordan’s coffee.
   

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